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Battles of Troy |
Najmieh Batmanglij,
celebrated chef, teacher, and author of the definitive
Persian cookbooks New Food of Life, Silk Road Cooking, and
more hosted us recently in her lovely home. Over the course
of one day, we were graciously trained in the secret art of
preparing a delectable winter meal-complete with the
quintessential Persian stunner: saffron rice with a golden
crust. We share Najmieh's introductory lessons in this
winter issue of Bidoun (what could be more glorious than a
perfect crust?) and invite you to familiarize yourself with
the delicacies of one of the oldest, most delicious of
world cuisines.
http://www.najmieh.com
Quince and Chicken Braise
(Khoresh-e Beh)
Ingredients
1 1/2 pounds chicken, boneless skinless thighs cut into 1-inch cubes
2 large onions, peeled and finely chopped
1/3 cup oil
1 1/2 teaspoons coarse salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/4 teaspoon turmeric
1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/3 cup yellow split peas
2 large quinces
1/2 cup grape molasses
2 tablespoons sugar
1/4 cup wine vinegar
1/4 cup fresh lime juice
1/2 teaspoon ground saffron dissolved in 1 tablespoon rosewater
1. In a Dutch oven, heat 3 tablespoons of oil, add the chicken, and sauté for 5 minutes. Add the onion and fry until brown. Add salt, pepper, turmeric, cinnamon, and split peas. Stir in 1 1/2 cups water. Cover and simmer for 30 to 45 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the split peas are almost tender (cooking times vary depending on type of split peas used).
2. Meanwhile, wash but do not peel the quinces. Cut into quarters and remove seeds; cut into 1/2-inch cubes.
3. Heat the remaining oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the quince and cook for 15 to 20 minutes, shaking the skillet occasionally, until quinces are golden-brown.
4. Add the molasses, sugar, vinegar, lime juice, and saffron-rosewater to the quinces and cook for 5 minutes, until caramelized.
5. Add the caramelized quince to the chicken, cover, and simmer for 15 minutes over medium heat.
6. Taste the braise and adjust seasoning. Transfer to a deep ovenproof casserole. Cover and place in a warm oven until ready to serve.
7. Serve hot with chelow, saffron-steamed rice. Nushe Jan!
Makes 6 servings
Preparation time: 20 minutes
Cooking time: 2 hours
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Pistachio Meatballs
(Kufteh-ye Pesteh)
1 medium onion, peeled and quartered
1 1/2 cups pistachios, shelled
1/4 cup bread crumbs
1 cup chopped fresh parsley
1/2 cup chopped fresh tarragon
1 tablespoon fresh lime juice
1 teaspoon red pepper flakes
1 teaspoon freshly ground
black pepper
1 tablespoon ground cumin
2 teaspoons coarse salt
1 1/2 pounds ground lamb, beef, turkey, or fish fillet (boned and skinned)
1 egg
1/4 cup olive oil Glaze
1/2 cup pomegranate paste
1 cup grape molasses or honey
1 cup Pinot Noir (optional)
1 teaspoon coarse salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly
ground black pepper
1/2 teaspoon
red pepper flakes
Garnish
One package of baby basil, sprouts, mint, or radishes
1/4 cup fresh pomegranate aril
1. In a food processor, pulse all the ingredients except the meat and egg until you have a grainy paste. Transfer to a large mixing bowl and add the meat and egg. Knead with your hands for a few minutes (do not overmix). Cover and place in the refrigerator for 15 to 20 minutes.
2. Preheat the oven to 500 degree F. Generously oil a wide, nonreactive baking dish and set aside.
3. Remove the paste from the refrigerator and shape into bite-sized balls (about 1 1/2 tablespoons each). Place the meatballs in the baking dish and brush well with olive oil. Bake in the oven for 10 minutes.
4. Meanwhile, in a mixing bowl, combine all the ingredients for the glaze.
5. Reduce the oven to 400 degree F. Glaze the meatballs and bake for another 5 minutes. Adjust seasoning to taste. If too sour, add more grape molasses; if too sweet, add more pomegranate paste. Keep warm in the oven or a chafing dish until ready to serve.
Serving Note
For passing these meatballs around with drinks, place them in a large serving dish and sprinkle with pomegranate arils and basil. Make toothpicks or small forks available.
Makes 24 meatballs
Preparation time: 35 (15 active) minutes
Cooking time: 15 minutes
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Saffron Steamed Rice with Golden Crust
(Chelow ba tah Dig)
3 cups long-grain basmati rice
8 cups water
2 tablespoons coarse salt
2 cardamom pods
2 tablespoons plain yogurt
3/4 cup vegetable oil, butter or ghee
1/2 teaspoon ground saffron, dissolved in
1/4 cup rosewater
Rice without the crust
Eliminate step 7.
In step 8, steam the rice for
20 minutes over medium heat.
Reheating leftover rice
Place the rice in a nonstick pot with 1/2 cup water, cover tightly, and place over low heat for 15 to 20 minutes.
To make saffron-rosewater Grind saffron threads with 1 cube of sugar until transformed into powder. In a glass container dissolve 1/2 teaspoon ground saffron in 1/4 cup of rosewater.
1. Wash the rice by placing it in a large container and covering it with warm water. Agitate gently with your hand, then pour off the water. Repeat 5 times until the rice is completely clean. Drain and set aside. Thoroughly washed rice gives off a delightful perfume when cooked that unwashed rice does not. If using long-grain American or Texmati rice, it is not necessary to wash it 5 times; once will suffice.
2. In an 11-inch diameter nonstick pot, bring 8 cups of water, 2 tablespoons salt, and cardamom pods to a boil.
3. Add the rice to the pot. Boil briskly for 6 to 10 minutes, gently stirring twice with a rubber spatula to loosen any grains that may have stuck to the bottom. When the rice rises to the surface and feels soft, it is ready. Drain rice in a large, fine-mesh colander and rinse with 2 or 3 cups of cold water.
4. In a bowl, mix 3 full spatulas of rice, 2 tablespoons plain yogurt, 1/2 cup oil, 1 cup water, and a few drops of dissolved saffron-rosewater.
5. Spread the yogurt-rice mixture over the bottom of the nonstick pot and pack down. This will help to create a tender golden crust (tah dig).
6. Take one spatula full of drained rice at a time and gently place it on top of the yogurt and rice mixture, gradually shaping the rice into a pyramid. This shape leaves room for the rice to expand and enlarge.
7. Cover and cook rice for 10 to 15 minutes, or until steam rises, over medium-high heat in order to help form a golden crust.
8. Dissolve 1/4 cup oil in 1/2 cup water and pour over the rice. Add the remaining saffron-rosewater. Place a clean dish towel over the pot and cover firmly with the lid to prevent steam from escaping. Cook for 55 minutes longer over medium-low heat. Keep warm over low heat until ready to serve.
9. Remove the pot from heat. To help free the crust from the bottom of the pot, allow the pot to cool on a damp surface for 2 minutes without uncovering it. There are two ways to serve the rice. The first is to hold the serving platter tightly over the uncovered pot and invert the two together, unmolding the entire mound onto the platter. The rice will emerge as a golden- crusted cake. Serve in wedges. The second way is to put aside 2 tablespoons of the saffron rice from the top for garnish, then gently, taking one spatula full of rice at a time, place the rice on a serving platter without disturbing the crust. Mound the rice into a cone. Sprinkle the saffron rice over the top. Detach the crust and arrange pieces of it around the rice.
Makes 6 servings
Preparation time: 15 minutes
Cooking time: 1 hour 10 minutes
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Almond Baklava
(Baqlava)
Syrup
2 1/2 cups sugar
1 1/2 cups water
1/2 cup rosewater
2 tablespoons lime juice
Dough
1/4 cup plain milk
1/2 cup canola oil
1 tablespoon cooled syrup
1/4 cup food-grade rosewater
1 large egg
2 1/2 cups unbleached
all-purpose flour, sifted
4 tablespoons canola oil for baking
Filling
2 pounds blanched
almonds, ground
2 cups sugar
2 tablespoons
ground cardamom
Garnish
2 tablespoons slivered pistachios
2 tablespoons dried rose petals
1. To make the syrup: Combine the sugar and water in a saucepan and stir well to dissolve the sugar. Bring to a boil (do not over-boil) and add the rosewater and lime juice. Remove from heat and set aside to cool.
2. To make the dough: In a food processor, mix the milk, oil, 1 tablespoon cooled syrup, rosewater, and egg. Stir in the fl our to form a dough. Knead the dough for 5 to 10 minutes, until it no longer sticks to your fingers. Divide the dough into 2 balls of equal size; enclose each ball in plastic wrap.
3. Grease a 17 x 11 x 1-inch nonstick baking sheet with oil. Preheat the oven to 350 degree F.
4. To make the filling: In the same food processor, grind together the almonds, sugar, and cardamom. Set aside.
5. Dust a large, fl at work surface with fl our. Roll out 1 ball of dough and use a long, narrow rolling pin to roll it into a sheet 1 inch larger all around than the baking sheet.
6. Roll the dough around the rolling pin; unroll it over the baking sheet, allowing the excess to overlap the sheet.
7. Spread the filling over the dough sheet, pressing down with your hands to make a firm, even layer. This simplifies cutting the baklava later.
8. Roll out the second ball of dough as you did the first and transfer over the top of the filling. With your hands, press the dough down to form an even layer.
9. Pinch the overhanging top and bottom edges of dough together to seal them, forming a rim around the edges of the baklava.
10. With a sharp knife and a ruler as a guide, cut through the top layer of the baklava diagonally in a cross-hatch pattern to create diamond shapes 1 inch wide.
11. Brush the dough all over with the remaining oil. Place the baking sheet in the middle of the preheated oven.
12. Bake for 30 to 35 minutes, until the baklava turns pink. Remove it from the oven and place it on a moist dish towel on the kitchen counter. Pour 2/3 of the syrup evenly over the top (keep the rest for later use, if needed).
13. Decorate the baklava with the pistachios and rose petals. Cover it tightly with aluminum foil and let it rest for 2 to 24 hours.
14. Use a sharp knife to cut and lift the diamond shaped pieces onto a serving platter. To store, cover tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate for as long as 3 weeks, or freeze for as long as 3 months.
Serving Note
Serve with tea.
Makes 30 pieces
Cooking time: 35 minutes
Resting time: 2 hours
Photography Annabel Mehran